It is no secret that the Crimean Peninsula is a kind of climbing mecca, where you will find a huge number of routes for every taste. The rocks of the Crimea are also known among climbers. The variety and complexity of the routes, given their availability, allow for excellent training before going to large mountains or, if the level allows, to perform in the rock class.
If you want to get acquainted with this fascinating vertical world or improve your sports level - contact us! The team of instructors of the Club Mountain Crimea has been conducting training in rock climbing and mountaineering children and adults. He regularly conducts various sports and educational events on the rocks of Bakhchisarai and in other picturesque corners of the Crimea. Holds annual "Climbing schools", "Multipitch schools", "Trade schools", seminars for the preparation of new sports sectors. Will help you commit mountain climbing any categories with an instructor, as well one-day training sessions on the basics of mountaineering and rock climbing techniques. Our instructors will teach you how to walk in the mountains or climb rocks safely, quickly and professionally!
All equipment is certified, routes are safe.
Of course, real mountaineering, the purpose of which is to conquer inaccessible, icy and snow-covered peaks, cannot exist in Crimea. And there are no unapproachable peaks here, and the climate does not contribute to eternal ice and significant snow cover. But Crimea is ideally suited for rock climbing. Every tourist has a chance to overcome the harsh and, at first glance, absolutely inaccessible rocks, whether he is an amateur in this matter or a professional. There are more than enough opportunities for learning this difficult task and for improving it.
The most suitable time for the development of the Crimean rocks is from April to mid-June and from September to the first half of November. Popular climbing routes follow Main ridge Crimean mountains. On the southern coast of Crimea, a spur of this ridge, starting from Cape Aya, descends steeply to the sea. There are many steep cliffs, an extreme walk to the top of which is extremely tempting for many climbers.
Paragelmen, Krestovaya, Krasny Kamen, Alupka, Kastropolskaya and Foroskaya walls are especially popular among those who like to climb the steep stone walls. Near Yalta, there is a cliff of Mount Stavri-Kaya, known among rock climbers all over the world, accessible only to professional climbers. The height of this grandiose, seemingly irresistible rock is almost ninety meters. Climbing to the very top of such a giant is not at all easy. Such a process requires remarkable skill and constant training. The rocky mountain of Marcheka rises near Sevastopol, which is also not easy to conquer. But not far from Simferopol there are Petrovsky rocks, the peaks of which can also try to subdue those who have recently joined this difficult business.
There is a universal rocky area on the southern coast of Crimea, intended for both professionals and amateurs - a climbing wall near Yalta, Nikitskaya cleft. Equipped with a climbing wall according to the highest international standards. World famous athletes often come here.
Many climbers rush to one of the most difficult climbing objects in Crimea - Mount Sokol, located not far from Sudak. The routes on this mountain are good because the sun warms them in full force only in the afternoon, and excessive heat does not interfere with climbing for a long time. But in the rain, trying to overcome rocky routes is very dangerous: the water can wash away stones, thus causing a rock fall. The plateau at the top of the mountain is extremely picturesque, and a walk along it after the ascent is a great pleasure.
Several routes of medium difficulty pass along the Kastropol wall, located between the Marcheka and Merdven-Kaya mountains, and along the western and central walls of the Ai-Petri massif, along the Angarsk wall of Chatyr-Dag. During the season, these areas are besieged by climbers who come here both alone and in groups.
In Central Crimea, fans of mountaineering and recreation in the mountains are attracted by gorges mountain range Kizil-Koba, rocks located in the Zmeinaya gully tract, rocks of the Demerdzhi and Syuyuryu-Kaya mountains, Sentorozhevoy cliff, located opposite Syuyuryu-Kai at the mouth Grand canyon... Climbing the overhanging wall of this cliff takes about five hours.
An excellent range for rock climbers has been created in the Bakhchisarai gorge Salachik. The polygon has about one hundred and twenty routes, designed for athletes of any level. Included in these routes are relatively safe, almost gentle stone formations for beginners, and overhanging cliffs with almost smooth walls, accessible only to craftsmen.
Every year in Crimea, mainly for its south bank, sports climbing competitions are being organized. Thousands of fans of this sport, who come here from the CIS countries and from far abroad, take part in them. An incredible number of spectators, who are accommodated both in camp sites and in tent cities, also gather for these extreme competitions. They are attracted to this area by the thirst for unusual sights, and the desire to experience an extraordinary emotional uplift.
In total, there are several dozen climbing walls of varying complexity in Crimea. Rock climbing is becoming more and more popular, conquering both the hearts and minds of its fans. There will always be restless people who are ready to give up the benefits of civilization at least for a while and go to the mountains to test themselves and explore the unknown corners of nature. Their name is tourists. Any hike, one way or another, is associated with some risk. Sports tourism implies risk, but any hike, one way or another, is associated with some risk. Rock climbing is not for the faint of heart. This activity is for those who have a strong body, unbending will and tremendous composure. In short, rock climbing is the sport of leaders. Those who, having overcome once fear and uncertainty, will never allow their triumph over themselves.
What rocks are the most popular in Crimea? Almost all, because the fantasy of an extreme knows no boundaries! But there are also official routes approved by the local Ministry of Tourism. A striking example is Via Ferrata, which is near Simferopol. it perfect place for training beginners and adjusting the skills of those who no longer consider themselves a beginner.
What do you need to know when booking climbing tours?
It is known that mountains, like rocks, do not like weaklings. So make sure you really want to get some climbing skills. And also find yourself an experienced guide - in our catalog all tours are exclusively from professionals in their field!The term "Small mountains" was introduced by the outstanding climber of the USSR and Russia, zms, zt of the USSR VM Abalakov in the article "Great opportunities of small mountains", published in the collection "Defeated peaks". The "Small Mountains" include rocky mountains and peaks up to 3000 m in height: most of the Western and Eastern Sayan Mountains, Crimea, numerous mountains of Siberia and The Far East... There are also many rocky mountains in the world of not great absolute heights with similar climbing conditions: fjords of Norway, Tatras, Carpathians (Romania), most of the Pyrenees (Spain), California mountains (USA), etc.
Climbing in such mountains differs significantly from classical mountaineering to peaks higher than 3000 m. On routes of the same difficulty category in the Big Mountains and, for example, in the Crimea, the complexity of rocky sections is significantly different. So, on a typical Caucasian 2B, the complexity of the rocks is not higher than III.cl., and on the former 1B (now 2B) "Telezhenko-Levy" on Forkant - the Fr 5c + key. Most of the year in Crimea, the routes are dry rocky, allowing you to walk in climbing shoes.
Mountaineering in Crimea occupies a borderline position between classic mountaineering and classical (non-sport) rock climbing. Automatic transfer of the existing system of mountain climbing, based on the Rules for conducting alpine activities, training programs for mountain climbers, training programs for instructors, etc., to Crimea leads to dangerous consequences. For example:
1. The AM rules stipulate
(Clause 3.3.) Maximum number of training departments:
for climbing 1B - 10 people, if all participants are over 18 years old (in other cases - 6 people);
On the example of the route "Surprise" 1B class. to the top of Merdvenkaya in Crimea (the length of the route is 5 pitches, an easy descent to the beginning in 10-15 minutes) you can see that with ten participants and an instructor, moving in bundles of two people, the first participants have time to go down to the starting point before they start work the last bunch. At the same time, the instructor loses control over the actions of the participants on difficult rocky terrain (individual sections up to 5a grade). As a result, most instructors fix the route with ropes, along which the group climbs to the top, which minimizes the educational effect of such an ascent.
(p.4.2.2.) To make the first ascents of 3A-5A category of difficulty, the participant of the alpine event must go through the appropriate training cycle of classes according to the "Program for the preparation of climbers ..." and have experience in ascending the route of the previous semi-category of difficulty.
A sports group (second-class athletes) with experience of 3B ascents in Bezengi or Alaarche comes to Crimea and is released for ascent 4A grade. to the top of Merdvenkaya along the route "Carnival". They have met all the requirements of the curriculum and the Rules. But their rock preparation is not higher than 4 grade level, and on routes 4A grade level. in Crimea, the sections, traversed "with their own belay", with the complexity of Fr 6a-6b, which makes such an ascent dangerous.
The reverse side of this paragraph of the Rules: having made rocky ascents 4A and 4B grade in the Crimea. the participant acquires the right to enter the route 5A grade, incl. ice-snow, or high-altitude.
2. The curriculum for the preparation of climbers provides for the requirement for the level of preparation for ascents 2A-2B grade level to confidently and reliably move along the rocky relief of 1 - 2 categories of difficulty in bundles and first in a bundle on separate sections of the 3rd category of difficulty;
In Crimea, on routes of this category, where the difficulty of the sections is up to 5c (fr), with such a level of climbing, the participants cannot overcome the route (the curriculum at the NP stage does not provide for climbing of such difficulty).
Fulfillment of the norms of the second sports category, after which the participants can walk on their own, requires preparation much lower than the level of complexity of the sections on the routes of the fourth category in Crimea (6a-6b):
confidently and accurately work in a bundle on rocky terrain of the 3rd category of complexity
to be the first to overcome individual sections of rocky relief of the 4th category of complexity;
3. The regulation on mountaineering instructors-methodologists (which came into force on 1.09.16) provides for:
p. 4.1. Instructor of the department of the NP stage - "Instructor-methodologist of initial training", 2 bd. discharge.
p.2.1. Initial training instructor:
the level of individual technical training when driving with lower belay: on rocky terrain not lower than 5a (fr.)
Working with the department on routes 2A-2B k.sl. in Crimea, where the complexity of the sections is up to 5c + (fr), cannot independently overcome the route, the participants also cannot (the curriculum at the NP stage does not provide for climbing of such difficulty). Combined with a squad of 6, this puts the group in a dangerous position.
At the same time, the Crimean Mountains have been and remain attractive for climbers who regularly hold numerous training and sports events here. Part of the ascents are made within the framework of classical mountaineering, part - in mountaineering competitions in the discipline "rock class". According to the results of competitions of various ranks in the rock class, sports categories in mountaineering can be assigned (in accordance with busy place, but not for perfect ascents).
Rock class - discipline "full-time", refereeing is carried out at the venue of the competition. Therefore, in order to fulfill the category norms in classical mountaineering (one Crimean ascent is allowed for credit), the most of the organizers of the normative qualifying competitions are formalized in “correspondence” disciplines: high-altitude and high-altitude technical classes, which for small mountains (including Crimean ones) - does not correspond to the accepted concepts of these classes of ascents.
The majority of specialists in educational work in mountaineering consider it necessary to train a climber up to 1 sport category inclusively as a versatile person working on all forms of mountainous terrain, without specialization. Therefore, it is impossible to exclude Malye Gory from the peaks that are accepted for credit for categories.
The way out of this situation is in creating new (or correcting old) FAR documents for Malye Gory, regulating climbing in Malye Gory and eliminating the above inconsistencies:
Of the Rules for conducting alpine events in the Small Mountains (or additions to the current Rules)
- training programs for the training of climbers in the Small Mountains class (or adjusting the current Program)
- introduction of the specialization "Instructor-methodologist in mountaineering, specialization Rock class" (with the right to work in Malye Gory).
In small mountains, there are many features in the work of an instructor, which differ from the work of his work in the Big Mountains:
The instructor must have a climbing level that allows him to lead safely (if necessary) on the route. For work at the stage of the joint venture (climbing 3A-3B grade) these are 6b-6c (on sports tracks) and 6a (trad).
Having such a level of climbing, the instructor must be able to bring the members of the squad to the same level so that they can work as leaders of the bundles on the routes. To do this, he must have the necessary knowledge, which is not in the TSHI program.
On training ascents, it is especially important to choose an instructor's place in the training department, which allows not only to control well the actions of all participants, but also to quickly respond to dangerous situations to eliminate them. In the Big Mountains, most of the training ascent takes place while moving on a shortened rope. In Crimea - in bundles for the entire length of the rope. A compartment of three ligaments stretches 150-180 m, which makes it difficult to control and direct their actions. The instructor should acquire the necessary additional knowledge in this area.
Depending on the level of training of the participants in the department, the instructor should be able to choose the most suitable tactics for the movement of the ligaments and their interaction: autonomous movement of the ligaments (which gives the maximum training effect), leaving in the most dangerous places reliable anchorage points for subsequent ligaments, leaving a large number such points for insufficiently confident ligaments moving along the route, organization of top belay for individual participants or the entire group, etc. It is necessary to study various tactical techniques and their choice depending on the preparedness of the participants in the educational department.
Taking into account the peculiarities of the Small Mountains and the Crimean Mountains in particular, I suggest:
1. Introduce the specialization “Small mountain-rock class” for mountaineering instructors, according to which to train both new instructors (the program is attached) and (according to a reduced course) to retrain old ones.
2. Mass sports categories in the Rocky class should be allowed to be performed not only for places taken in competitions, but also for completed ascents in Malye Gory (enter into EWSK)
A brief history and analysis of mountaineering in the Small Mountains of Crimea
The first ascents on the walls of the Crimea began in the fifties of the last century by individual climbers to prepare for ascents in the Big Mountains. They were not systemic in nature, and were committed from time to time. With the advent of mountaineering and rock-climbing sections in the Crimea, such ascents were made more and more often. From the early sixties to the early seventies were passed on the walls of Ai-Petri:
5A Along the Central wall with a traverse Zubtsov, S. Frolov - V. Goncharov (Yalta) 1961
- 3B Along the Southern ridge, V. Brazhkin - O. Grippa (Simferopol), 1963
- 4A "Tablichka", V. Kulyamin - V. Likhachev (Yalta), 1968
- 2А Along the SW ridge, V. Goncharov (Yalta) - O. Grippa (Simferopol), 1971
- 1B On the Eastern couloir, O. Grippa (Simferopol), 1970
- 5B "Feathers", H. Kornys (Simferopol), 1971
and other routes to the walls of the Crimean Mountains (1968, 6A Shaankaya, Zenit, V. Pavlotos and the team, Morcheka M. Kornys and V. Zasypkin 1971 and many others).
During this period, the ascents were made mainly by the inhabitants of the Crimea. The style of these ascents is usually alpine, in twos and light. The basis for the preparation of the Crimeans for the ascents was a high level of rock climbing thanks to year-round training on the rocks.
From the late sixties - early seventies, residents of other regions of the USSR began to make ascents in the Crimea: Dnepropetrovsk, Odessa, Kiev, Kharkov, Moscow, Leningrad, etc. For most climbers, such ascents were also training ones in preparation for ascents in the Big Mountains. Famous teams have passed difficult wall "fives" and "sixes" (V. Monogarov, L. Kensitsky and their teams, teams of "Petrel", "Spartak", "Vodnik", and / to "Odessa") to acquire similarity and special skills before climbing wall routes in the Caucasus, Pamirs, etc. The style of these routes was influenced by the dominant tactics of specialization and distribution of responsibilities in the group, the movement of the group along fixed ropes fixed by the leader. Preparation for the ascents was carried out in sections and clubs using the Curriculum for training climbers of the USSR and the best practices of team coaches.
With the birth of the Ukrainian SSR State Trainer G.I., the Ukrainian Field Championship in Malye Gory, a competitive incentive appeared in the development of mountaineering on the Crimean walls. The most difficult routes of those years were passed on Morchek, Triangle, Shaankai, Chelebi and other walls of Crimea.
Initially, the classification of routes was not official, in the Route Classifier on mountain peaks These routes were not included in the USSR. Therefore, the pioneers in the Small Mountains, when determining the difficulty of the route, proceeded from the complexity of the route as a whole in comparison with similar routes in the Big Mountains. With this approach (route complexity \u003d length x complexity of sections), the complexity of the sections on the Crimea routes turned out to be higher than on similar (according to classification) rock routes of the Big Mountains.
Since the late sixties, in crimean mountains there was another, not official, "wild" mountaineering. Even "official" climbers - members of sections and clubs, having grades, went out on routes outside of climbing activities, without observing the requirements of the Mountain Climbing Rules, training programs and other directive documents of the USSR Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. The ascents were not counted towards the categories, but were made for pleasure, to test their capabilities and their limits. And they allowed, for example, the badge player to pass the "three", "forbidden" to him by the Rules, or even go to the "five" with a more experienced friend. In two, quickly and beautifully, and not as a "steam locomotive" in the team!
There were climbers who walked independently, outside the federation, and only in the Crimea. Naturally, no one was involved in their training, knowledge and experience were acquired independently and from "senior", more experienced comrades. Among them were outstanding climbers Yu. Lishaev ("Fantik"), S. Nadtochy ("Terrorist"), M. Voloshanovsky ("Michel"), Ershov and others, who made many outstanding ascents. In "wild" mountaineering, its own system of training for climbers has developed: joint ascents in a pair with a more experienced friend, who "taught" mountaineering by his example and advice. And what is important: such training often gave a greater effect and faster growth.
And injuries among "wild" climbers turned out to be lower than in official events held by sections and clubs. The main reason for this was the psychological attitude: “My safety depends only on me!”, And as a result, increased attention and caution on the route. In “official” mountaineering, the responsibility for safety rests with the instructor, the participants trust him and rely on him completely, losing independence in decision-making in critical situations.
Climbing training in the "Small mountains" class (rock class)
When developing normative documents for training climbers in the "Small Mountains" class, it is necessary to take into account that:
1. The complexity of the rocks on routes of one category in the Crimea is much higher than in the Big Mountains. So on the usual rocky route 1B the maximum difficulty of the rocky sections is not more than 2 grade level, and on the Crimean "one" - F5a-5b grade level. Therefore, it is not permissible to train climbers in this class according to training programs for the Big Mountains, where in the main period (in the mountains) at the NP1 stage, only five hours are given to the individual technique of climbing the rocks, and the rocks are simple (1-2 grade) and medium difficulty (3 grade).
2. The quantitative composition of the group in Malye Gory must be less than that provided for branches in Bolshoye Gory. So at the stage NP1 in the Big Mountains, a detachment of 10 people (plus an instructor) is allowed, i.e. five bundles of two people. Climbing routes 1B c big mountains allow the instructor to control the safety and actions of a squad of 10 people. the squad passes most of the route simultaneously on a shortened rope. On the Crimean unit, the simultaneous movement of the squad is practically impossible, and with alternating belay, a squad of 10 people (5 ligaments) is stretched by 250-300 m, i.e. the former is already reaching the summit, and the latter has not yet started the route. It is practically impossible for the instructor to control the actions of the participants and their safety. Therefore, at the stages of NP, the composition of the department should be no more than two ligaments (4-5 people), in all other cases - no more than one ligament (2-3 people).
Considering all of the above, the following concept of preparing climbers for ascents in the Small Mountains is proposed:
1. The style of ascents in Crimea should correspond to those generally accepted in other low mountains of the World: Tatras, Norway, California, Dolomites, etc. These are ascents in bundles - twos, preferably free climbing. The use of handrails by the community is frowned upon.
2. The basis of preparation, and then successful safe ascents in the Crimea are year-round systematic rock climbing lessons, as an element and direction of mountaineering. For such training, it is necessary to use climbing on sports and traditional routes, moving to AID, drytulling and other types of rock climbing.
3. The main part of the training should take place in the preparatory period. It is impossible to teach climbing at a high level in a short stay in the mountains. In the main period, it is correct to limit the control of the level of training with recommendations based on the results of monitoring the complexity of the upcoming ascents.
4. Since the ascents at the SP and SS stages must be performed in pairs, the instructor does not take part in the ascent. On the first ascents of a new category of difficulty, the athlete is led by a more experienced friend who is in the lead on the route, is the leader as opposed to the partner - the follower. To stimulate interest in such a training system, it is necessary to supplement the level norms with the requirements for ascents by the leader and the follower (see Appendix 1).
5. The role of the instructor in such a system is in the full-fledged, versatile preparation of the climber for safe ascent, checking this readiness and issuing a recommendation for the ascent.
M. A. Sitnik, msmk, instructor I cat.
Expand discussion thread
Expand discussion thread
Expand discussion thread
Expand discussion thread
Expand discussion thread
Expand discussion thread
Expand discussion thread
Expand discussion thread